GENNY FALL/WINTER 2025: A TRIBUTE TO THE MERIT OF WOMEN

The journey through the Genny archive, where prototypes and models designed for the brand from 1962 to the present day are found, liberates Sara Cavazza Facchini’s creativity, who invents a new vocabulary of feminine signs for fall/ winter ‘25-’26. It starts with the tassel, an ornament made of a bunch of threads braided at one end, which in Indian culture evokes the spiritual awakening process leading to bliss, while in ecclesiastical and military heraldry it indicates the dignity of the wearer. For Versace in 1993, it was a graphic sign of great elegance, a sort of geometric grid closed at the bottom by the tassel, to which a heart, an eternal symbol of love, is now added. For Sara, it is a true honor bestowed upon women, exquisitely feminine with the tuxedo jacket, loose trousers, a vest, and bowtie, which is actually a bow. Tassels are omnipresent. Printed or embroidered with two or three different techniques on the men’s shirt but also transformed into extraordinary three-dimensional decorations woven into a jacquard mohair pullover – or even used as embroidered pendants on loafers and slingbacks, in silk and crystals on warm knits, and in leather on evening bags.

Almost all the decorative elements of the collection come from the archive, starting with the small metal tubes around the cardigan’s neckline, transformed into a new type of piping, moving on to the G of Genny, which becomes both a buckle and button, and then to the perforated brass bezel used as a medal celebrating the value of femininity. The hearts to which the tassel is attached, join a golden chain in the new belt-jewelry. And then, there is the wide coat, cut like a military overcoat that Sara drapes backwards, fastening the sleeves like corset ribbons on the back, thus creating the volumes of an extraordinary black and white evening dress. The colors of light and shadow are often combined in the various outfits, as in the Taoist theory of Yin and Yang, while also emphasizing an interesting search for new forms, including the cape with a deep, crater-like back neckline or the peplum featuring both geometric and round rods on the evening blouses. Among the dominant shades is the midnight blue of the double-breasted coat and suits, a warm camel tone on the enveloping coat with double lapels, and a hint of pink in the classic masculine patterns such as herringbone or Scottish tartan. All embody the very British taste of tailored garments, whilst emulating couture in the evening ones. The tassel pattern is embroidered onto a spectacular blue-black cage corset that releases the full romantic beauty of a modern woman, who knows how to love others as much as herself. A tribute to the merit of a new femininity.