MOSCHINO PRESENTS WOMEN’S FALL - WINTER 2025 SHOW
Collezione 04
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Tools of the trade, the progress of works. For Fall/Winter 2025, Moschino creative director Adrian Appiolaza takes inspiration from the idea of hard work, but with play. The notion of the craft central to fashion, the excellence of sartorial tailoring at the heart of Franco Moschino’s practice, becomes a leitmotif for the collection – evidenced in every stitch.
Underpinning the collection, a reference-point from Moschino mythology and iconography – Franco Moschino’s “mannequin” dress from 1992. Cut close to the body, it forms a literal and ideological basis for the clothes, worn as underpinning and underpinning a show shaped by the industry of fashion. Dresses seem frozen mid-creation, while tailoring is dissected, its working parts reimagined as decoration. A raw selvedge, made for Moschino, becomes a new badge of identity, an ironic non-logo un-finishing the edge of tailoring that dissolves into a free drape.
Deconstruction becomes a process of recreation: dresses are collages from composite components of other garments, while sweaters wrap into each other, many parts forming one whole. Of a similar fashion, a collaboration with the British textile company Sanderson of London leads to rework of four of their archival floral prints – Grandi Flora, Stapleton Park, Eton Poppy, Everything Roses. These are ‘Moschinofied’ – flowers begin to smile, light-bulbs pop.
Work leads to workwear – denims, distressed leathers. Atypical of Moschino, here they are translated to the house’s typical language of exaggeration, a play with scale distorting their origin story. The same is true of archetypical motifs – the feminine bow, knotted at wrist or neck, is pulled out to vast proportions or removed entirely, its silhouette sketched against bare skin, somehow more present in its absence.
Craft is luxury, and luxury is relative – a Moschino mantra, it is expressed by a wealth of ideas, the value of thought. An evening gown may be made from paper or trash bags, in a pure act of subversion, while a down jacket wraps the body with the volume of a fur coat. Always, at Moschino, nothing is quite as it seems – witty accessories toy with trompe l’oeil, surreal inversion. At Moschino, a handbag looks like anything but.
There’s a value, too, to the Moschino vocabulary, the house’s eternal vernacular – the ‘Smiley’, the nameplate belt, the flamenco ruffle, icons of the house explored, exploded and celebrated, in an act of quiet and personal joy.
Moschino values are wider than fashion. Clothes here dress all genders, combining references from all walks of dress into a whole that cannot be considered binary, a reflection of our changed times. And the closing look takes a political statement directly from the work of Franco – SOS Save Our Sphere – to comment on the ecological crises we continue to face and need to face up to. Timeless, yet timely, it is a pertinent reminder that Franco Moschino’s messages and concerns continue to resonate with our current times.
TAGGED :
MOSCHINO
FASHION
DUBAI
WOMEN’S FALL
